Gothibaroquessance

Journal Entry, Portugal August 8, 1993
Up around 9:00 a.m. and out to adventure. Took the ferry over to Barreiro then train to Evora, a UNESCO World Heritage site and once the second most important city in Portugal. It even had a Jewish quarter (all the really once the second most important cities did you know). Met a few German travelers on their way to the same campground and attempted communication with minimal but humorous success. At least everyone smokes here. It’s a great conversation starter: “excuse me, do you have a light? Yes, I speak English. Is that legal here? Where are you from?”
With less humiliation then expected, the tent went up. Hurray.
Tonight I camp.

Journal Entry August 9th, 1993
I did it!
I survived my first night alone in my terrifically tethered tent. I am amazing.
Hello charming Evora. Stowed my pack at the train station locker and trekked around town. Once ruled by Celts, Moors and Romans, Evora is an architectural adventure. It’s all really impressive if you know what the heck you’re looking at. But, I’m just not very clear how Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque and Renaissance architecture differs in construct and all I hear is Mel Brooks movie music when I close my eyes to imagine it. Nevertheless, followed recommendations to stop at the Chapel of Bones in the Igreja De Sao Francisco where 16th-century monks festooned the Capela with 5000 skeletons. Now that was COOL! The bones are methodically arranged, sometimes in arches and crosses covering nearly every inch of space on the walls and ceiling. Wandered dutifully among historic landmarks then train to Odemira. Arrived too late to camp or at least too tired to bother so paid the 2000 Escudos for a room.
Slept oddly well in resource remorse.

Journal Entry August 10, 1993
From Odemira to Zambujeira (what a rhythm); beach side town with beautiful views of the sea and sand but literally mobbed with people. Not yet ready for the masses, I grabbed the next bus out to Setubal (third largest port in Portugal). Arrived around 7:30 pm and walked a couple miles to the camp site. Not what I expected. It was packed with European vacationers in, what seemed to me, luxury tents and campers complete with televisions and antennas, outdoor lighting, floor mats, pets and even potted plants!
Set up my mini house on a mini hill and crosswords to sleep.